So I was just at Jon's pub that he bartends at, and on Sundays they have some live music. Today they had a Kora player and I was all "that's so cool. I love the kora. I should go talk to that guy during a break and say hello and see if I can try out his kora." So I did, and I asked him where he was from: Gambia! Oh, brilliant! And you play Kora so you must be Mandinka- so I said the greeting phrases (the only bit of Mandinkan that I know) and we got to chatting. Hey, I've been to Gambia. It's a small country, I thought, I wonder if he knows my kora teacher-
"Do you know Mamadou Souso?"
"...he's my father."
Woah! You know how people are always like oh, the world, it's so big. They're just wrong.
Showing posts with label AFRICA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label AFRICA. Show all posts
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Saturday, May 17, 2008
The Wollof Boys
This is how awesome the Wollof boys are. The four in the front were our teachers. This video was taken at their compound on one of the last days of the trip when they performed for us. The two on the left and the one on the farthest right are brothers and the brightly colored guy in the middle is their uncle.
And they all dance!
Saturday 26-4-08 Berefet Susu/Jola lessons
I love feeling strong and awesome and flexible and badass and full of energy. We did yoga again this morning and I do enjoy leading everyone with the poses and all. I’m basically parroting Will word for word, but that’s okay- he is a very good person to nick from.
The Susu teachers showed up tonight with their ballafons and their djembes and their FIRE EATER. He blew a big billowy ball of fire and I screamed because oh my god. He did a bunch of jumping around like a crocodile on his belly. I am deliriously tired so when the opening night show was over I tried to do it too. I could walk- one hand and one food at a time- but not jump. I’m going to keep trying and hopefully be able to by the time we get back to London (note: I can’t do this.) That would be so superfly. Jo said “you’re so strong!” which is A: flattering B: not strictly true- there is a trick to it (keeping your elbows close to your body) and C: encouraging. I feel like a goddess.
We learned to tie-dye today with women from Berefet. I took pictures of the whole thing/process. I did a leaf pattern with green and purple (mauve as they kept saying) I’m hoping that the colors will lighten considerably when dry. We can hope (note: they didn’t…) Fun process though. The language barrier was difficult and I was convinced at the beginning that we wouldn’t be allowed to do the tying ourselves and was being preemptively disappointed which was silly because man, I ended up doing a lot of sewing. Maybe next time not quite so many little designs. I tied up Kate’s calabash bag as well and think that turned out quite nicely.
This morning we hopped on a boat to James Island which is a World Heritage site for its importance at the beginning and end of the slave trade. It was sort of like going to the concentration camp in Germany with Laine. I kept walking around quietly and contemplatively while trying hard to *feel* something. The thing is, it was a lovely day and the ruins were a bit like climbing around my own private castle. The island was deserted except for us. I sat on a beautiful ledge and sang ‘edelweiss’ to myself- clearly mixing up the Nazis and the European slave trade. Oops.
The Susu teachers showed up tonight with their ballafons and their djembes and their FIRE EATER. He blew a big billowy ball of fire and I screamed because oh my god. He did a bunch of jumping around like a crocodile on his belly. I am deliriously tired so when the opening night show was over I tried to do it too. I could walk- one hand and one food at a time- but not jump. I’m going to keep trying and hopefully be able to by the time we get back to London (note: I can’t do this.) That would be so superfly. Jo said “you’re so strong!” which is A: flattering B: not strictly true- there is a trick to it (keeping your elbows close to your body) and C: encouraging. I feel like a goddess.
We learned to tie-dye today with women from Berefet. I took pictures of the whole thing/process. I did a leaf pattern with green and purple (mauve as they kept saying) I’m hoping that the colors will lighten considerably when dry. We can hope (note: they didn’t…) Fun process though. The language barrier was difficult and I was convinced at the beginning that we wouldn’t be allowed to do the tying ourselves and was being preemptively disappointed which was silly because man, I ended up doing a lot of sewing. Maybe next time not quite so many little designs. I tied up Kate’s calabash bag as well and think that turned out quite nicely.
This morning we hopped on a boat to James Island which is a World Heritage site for its importance at the beginning and end of the slave trade. It was sort of like going to the concentration camp in Germany with Laine. I kept walking around quietly and contemplatively while trying hard to *feel* something. The thing is, it was a lovely day and the ruins were a bit like climbing around my own private castle. The island was deserted except for us. I sat on a beautiful ledge and sang ‘edelweiss’ to myself- clearly mixing up the Nazis and the European slave trade. Oops.
Wendesday 23-4-08 Berefet Wollof lessons
It was infernally hot again today- so dancing was a bit much this morning. This afternoon dissolved into unmemorable conversations and desperately trying to cool off. Evening drumming lessons however went on for forever so that we didn’t really have a break before dinner the way we usually do because Wollof drumming is so very much fun.
Oh! I wish I didn’t have to decide what to buy before having tried all of the various instruments. I would really like to try a djembe and learn how they are played first before deciding whether I want a wollof drum or a djembe.
Oh! I wish I didn’t have to decide what to buy before having tried all of the various instruments. I would really like to try a djembe and learn how they are played first before deciding whether I want a wollof drum or a djembe.
Tuesday 22-4-08 Berefet Wollof lessons
The wollof drummers arrived last night and performed for us, it was phenomenal. Good job I had my ear plugs though because the drums are ridiculously loud. The dancers’ butts jiggle around all impressively. The moon was still very nearly full and I could still see the rabbit that Ous asked if I could see a few days ago. He sees a man’s profile. I swear the moon is closer here.
We learned how to dance this morning. Lots of swiveling hips around and bouncing. It was tough work, but fun. After class I went up to the drums and had a bit of a private lesson with Viye which was great. I love thwaping the stick on to the head of the drum.
After lunch I sat with Tara and Nick for a while, but then it got far too hot so I sat with the blondies and then Kate for a while. It seems like everyone is sort of squirming around in the group feeling uncomfortable for any variety of reasons. It also seems like it is all coming to a head of sorts now which is probably good. We’re not all talking about issues together, but clearly there are small conversations going on all over the place which can only be a good thing.
Ha! They couldn’t get rid of us after drumming class- we just kept going and going and going. Lets play it again! I recorded the whole thing, which I think will be helpful in small little sections but not in its entirety which is going to be a pain to pick through. The wollof boys were very patient teachers and paid us each quite a bit of attention. By the end of the lesson we were playing a whole song and walking in time around the drums as we played them. At the end of the lesson they ended up taking the sticks out of our hands to make us stop playing.
I spent more time than is really sensible playing with a calculator at the bar and calculating the drinks tallies for our group for the last six days in Berefet. Weird that we’ve been here for nearly a week.
As we were heading to bed Caroline found what she thought was a mouse under her bed. I sat there with a flashlight while she went to get Habib and had just figured out that it was a frog- which Caroline has a deathly phobia of- when Habib called out “It’s not a mouse, it’s a frog!” at which point Caroline screamed, ran out of the hut and began sobbing on my porch one hut over. Good work Habib.
We learned how to dance this morning. Lots of swiveling hips around and bouncing. It was tough work, but fun. After class I went up to the drums and had a bit of a private lesson with Viye which was great. I love thwaping the stick on to the head of the drum.
After lunch I sat with Tara and Nick for a while, but then it got far too hot so I sat with the blondies and then Kate for a while. It seems like everyone is sort of squirming around in the group feeling uncomfortable for any variety of reasons. It also seems like it is all coming to a head of sorts now which is probably good. We’re not all talking about issues together, but clearly there are small conversations going on all over the place which can only be a good thing.
Ha! They couldn’t get rid of us after drumming class- we just kept going and going and going. Lets play it again! I recorded the whole thing, which I think will be helpful in small little sections but not in its entirety which is going to be a pain to pick through. The wollof boys were very patient teachers and paid us each quite a bit of attention. By the end of the lesson we were playing a whole song and walking in time around the drums as we played them. At the end of the lesson they ended up taking the sticks out of our hands to make us stop playing.
I spent more time than is really sensible playing with a calculator at the bar and calculating the drinks tallies for our group for the last six days in Berefet. Weird that we’ve been here for nearly a week.
As we were heading to bed Caroline found what she thought was a mouse under her bed. I sat there with a flashlight while she went to get Habib and had just figured out that it was a frog- which Caroline has a deathly phobia of- when Habib called out “It’s not a mouse, it’s a frog!” at which point Caroline screamed, ran out of the hut and began sobbing on my porch one hut over. Good work Habib.
Monday 21-4-08 Berefet
It is our day off before the Wollof people arrive this evening. I have to admit- I am kind of done. I would like to be back in more familiar surroundings, be able to make my own decisions about what to do with my time instead of this constant group think.
We asked for fresh fruit for “fruit salad time” today. This is a great idea in theory, but in reality this meant that we had yellow grapefruit and fresh papaya which sounds all nice until you realize that fresh papaya is VILE. I liked the grapefruit though.
We went on a bush walk today to find some monkeys. We saw a couple but I was unable to take a picture. Some of the foliage was gorgeous and I got a lot of pictures of cows. We ended up in a clearing of palm trees where a man was climbing with a sling to hack palm fruit down. We tried some and it wasn’t terribly tasty- just sort of oily. We walked back via the farm/vegetable garden and the new fancy school that ECCO helped to build. We stopped by some classrooms and said hello while the classes sang out their lessons. One class was learning months and days of the week. The student who was leading it kept leaving out October which I thought was pretty hilarious. At the garden we saw cashew trees! Each nut has its own red/orange fruit that it hangs from. It was a nice walk.
Somehow yesterday I became the yoga instructor du jour. I think it was because Maria and I did quite a hardcore practice in the morning and then she kept raving about it which I really felt quite honored by. In the afternoon I did a short practice with Emma and Jo with lots of explanation because they had each only done yoga once and had found it easy and kind of worthless. Having been trained (as it were) by Will from Charm City yoga in Baltimore, mine was harder. It was nice to have to remember what it was like when I first began doing yoga and how to explain how to do certain postures. Between the calming effect of doing yoga twice in one day and having good conversations with the blondies I am feeling so much more included and like myself.
We asked for fresh fruit for “fruit salad time” today. This is a great idea in theory, but in reality this meant that we had yellow grapefruit and fresh papaya which sounds all nice until you realize that fresh papaya is VILE. I liked the grapefruit though.
We went on a bush walk today to find some monkeys. We saw a couple but I was unable to take a picture. Some of the foliage was gorgeous and I got a lot of pictures of cows. We ended up in a clearing of palm trees where a man was climbing with a sling to hack palm fruit down. We tried some and it wasn’t terribly tasty- just sort of oily. We walked back via the farm/vegetable garden and the new fancy school that ECCO helped to build. We stopped by some classrooms and said hello while the classes sang out their lessons. One class was learning months and days of the week. The student who was leading it kept leaving out October which I thought was pretty hilarious. At the garden we saw cashew trees! Each nut has its own red/orange fruit that it hangs from. It was a nice walk.
Somehow yesterday I became the yoga instructor du jour. I think it was because Maria and I did quite a hardcore practice in the morning and then she kept raving about it which I really felt quite honored by. In the afternoon I did a short practice with Emma and Jo with lots of explanation because they had each only done yoga once and had found it easy and kind of worthless. Having been trained (as it were) by Will from Charm City yoga in Baltimore, mine was harder. It was nice to have to remember what it was like when I first began doing yoga and how to explain how to do certain postures. Between the calming effect of doing yoga twice in one day and having good conversations with the blondies I am feeling so much more included and like myself.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Gambia Itinerary
In response to a comment left by my mother, it occurs to me that it is not obvious to anyone (save myself) that I am posting the Gambia journals/blogs in chronological order. So, in order that you know what has come and what will arrive soon- this is what we did:
Two nights in Cape Point at the ECCO house, one day trip to Paradise Beach
Ferry to Njawara- Four (five?) nights in Njawara- Mandinka lessons
Ferry/Drive to Berefet- Fula lessons
day off-Berefet- James Island and tie dye
Wollof lessons
two days off- market and...uh...don't remember currently, sorry!
Susu/Jola lessons-Berefet
drive to Cape Point for three nights. Evenings with Wollof teachers at their compound, Momodou at his compound and then flight home.
The order of events is correct, the dates/durations should not be subjected to scrutiny. Each set of lessons were three days long.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Berefet- Fula
Friday 18-4-08
Last night our Fula teachers serenaded us. I wish I had had my camera/recorder/whatever. They were amazing- jumping around all over the place and doing headstands. I’m not sure of any of their names but the tall, thin, clothes hanger type man who plays the fiddle sort of instrument amuses me. (His name is Abdulie, he plays the riti, and he continued to amuse me for the rest of the week) He is very quiet but with a non-verbal wry sort of humor- sneaking up on the manic calabash drummer and stoically pretending to kick the flautist in the shin. Um, I’m not describing him well- but trust me, he is charming.
This morning we learned a couple of songs. I couldn’t tell you what the names are. The rhythm and pitch of things seem much more fluid than western or even mandinka music. I think Momodou was a better teacher but these guys don’t speak English which makes it harder. They are definitely entertaining.
The afternoon instrumental lessons were intense. Playing starught for 45 minutes. With the Riti whenever I would try to stop to rest, Abdulie- the teaceher who is so tall and thin and looks like a puppet would come by and show me what we were playing again as though I had forgotten and that was why I wasn’t playing.
In the evening Ous (the main Gambian ECCO guy) sat us down to talk about how the first week had gone and to see if we had any criticisms of requests. That turned into a Gambian history lesson that opened the floodgates on questions that we had and the converstation swam informatively on as we all moved to the campfire and continued chatting. I ended up talking to Joanna quite a bit (the only female Gambian ECCO employee) – about Gambia, about being Catholic in a muslim country, about her family, cloth, and her living situation. She is very nice.
Berefet is miles different from Njawara. It is like a big fancy resort in comparison. We have huts with two to a hut and bathrooms! We each have our own bathroom with real toilets and a sink. The grounds are much larger with pretty little paths paved in clam shells, and all lined with flower beds. It is clean and bright and a bit more impersonal though that may be because we’ve only just arrived.
Last night our Fula teachers serenaded us. I wish I had had my camera/recorder/whatever. They were amazing- jumping around all over the place and doing headstands. I’m not sure of any of their names but the tall, thin, clothes hanger type man who plays the fiddle sort of instrument amuses me. (His name is Abdulie, he plays the riti, and he continued to amuse me for the rest of the week) He is very quiet but with a non-verbal wry sort of humor- sneaking up on the manic calabash drummer and stoically pretending to kick the flautist in the shin. Um, I’m not describing him well- but trust me, he is charming.
This morning we learned a couple of songs. I couldn’t tell you what the names are. The rhythm and pitch of things seem much more fluid than western or even mandinka music. I think Momodou was a better teacher but these guys don’t speak English which makes it harder. They are definitely entertaining.
The afternoon instrumental lessons were intense. Playing starught for 45 minutes. With the Riti whenever I would try to stop to rest, Abdulie- the teaceher who is so tall and thin and looks like a puppet would come by and show me what we were playing again as though I had forgotten and that was why I wasn’t playing.
In the evening Ous (the main Gambian ECCO guy) sat us down to talk about how the first week had gone and to see if we had any criticisms of requests. That turned into a Gambian history lesson that opened the floodgates on questions that we had and the converstation swam informatively on as we all moved to the campfire and continued chatting. I ended up talking to Joanna quite a bit (the only female Gambian ECCO employee) – about Gambia, about being Catholic in a muslim country, about her family, cloth, and her living situation. She is very nice.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Even More Njawara
Monday 14-4-08
One of the great things about being 2/5 deaf is that depending on which ear you sleep on- when in the African countryside you can either hear everything or nothing.
I heard the bats beeping Major 3rds together, the mangoes crashing onto various roofs as they fall from all of the trees, the donkeys randomly freaking out, the broadcast prayer service in the morning, roosters, cooing doves (lets be honest: pigeons)
Momodou's brother died this morning and yet he still went ahead and taught us- which is extraordinary. I like the sound of the Kora much more when it is not amplified.
The musicians in Mandinka culture are hereditary. If you are from the family then you are a Jelli (Jali? Jeli? Whatever.) They are peacemakers, messengers, and mediators as well as entertainers. A lot of the songs are teaching or advice songs.
I think one of my favorite things about this trip so far is how everyone talks so very openly about their bowel movements. We know who has gone, who hasn't, how many times and how successful they were. It is hilarious. I mean, part of it is that we really are keeping an eye on every one's health, but we're talking about poop! All the time! I feel like a 3 year old telling jokes.
The men from the camp are watching television outside run on the generator and right now it is playing something random and vaguely classical and the beating/squeaky bats are hitting the up beat of the waltz that they are playing. Awesome. Good work, bats.
We went for a walk in the village today and visited the school. There are a lot of what look like abandoned buildings around- I suppose they could be occupied, but it reminded me that Njawara used to be a larger village. Momodou was telling us that many people left- but I didn't understand the reasons he gave us. It sounded like someone was spreading rumors about a curse or something?
We have learned 4.5 songs in Mandinka now. I've recorded all but the national anthem, which I will get tomorrow. I've also recorded the Arabic school right outside the walls of the camp where they sings bits from the Koran over and over and over again in that bellow-y "I'm singing loud" voice that kids scream in.
I've learned to play a little tune on the Kora. I'm not keen on tuning the Kora, but it is a joy to play and sounds lovely. Momodou has come over twice to show me little things which is gratifying. He has the best "wise elder" face.
Okay, so I know "bats fly in your hair" is a myth and all because they have sonar and know where they're going and all of that- but one just flew into my hair! And I wasn't even moving around wildly or anything! I was just standing there! It richocheted off my head and landed in the corner where is sat- stunned for a few seconds before flying off again, aiming for the ceiling.
One of the great things about being 2/5 deaf is that depending on which ear you sleep on- when in the African countryside you can either hear everything or nothing.
I heard the bats beeping Major 3rds together, the mangoes crashing onto various roofs as they fall from all of the trees, the donkeys randomly freaking out, the broadcast prayer service in the morning, roosters, cooing doves (lets be honest: pigeons)
Momodou's brother died this morning and yet he still went ahead and taught us- which is extraordinary. I like the sound of the Kora much more when it is not amplified.
The musicians in Mandinka culture are hereditary. If you are from the family then you are a Jelli (Jali? Jeli? Whatever.) They are peacemakers, messengers, and mediators as well as entertainers. A lot of the songs are teaching or advice songs.
I think one of my favorite things about this trip so far is how everyone talks so very openly about their bowel movements. We know who has gone, who hasn't, how many times and how successful they were. It is hilarious. I mean, part of it is that we really are keeping an eye on every one's health, but we're talking about poop! All the time! I feel like a 3 year old telling jokes.
The men from the camp are watching television outside run on the generator and right now it is playing something random and vaguely classical and the beating/squeaky bats are hitting the up beat of the waltz that they are playing. Awesome. Good work, bats.
We went for a walk in the village today and visited the school. There are a lot of what look like abandoned buildings around- I suppose they could be occupied, but it reminded me that Njawara used to be a larger village. Momodou was telling us that many people left- but I didn't understand the reasons he gave us. It sounded like someone was spreading rumors about a curse or something?
We have learned 4.5 songs in Mandinka now. I've recorded all but the national anthem, which I will get tomorrow. I've also recorded the Arabic school right outside the walls of the camp where they sings bits from the Koran over and over and over again in that bellow-y "I'm singing loud" voice that kids scream in.
I've learned to play a little tune on the Kora. I'm not keen on tuning the Kora, but it is a joy to play and sounds lovely. Momodou has come over twice to show me little things which is gratifying. He has the best "wise elder" face.
Okay, so I know "bats fly in your hair" is a myth and all because they have sonar and know where they're going and all of that- but one just flew into my hair! And I wasn't even moving around wildly or anything! I was just standing there! It richocheted off my head and landed in the corner where is sat- stunned for a few seconds before flying off again, aiming for the ceiling.
More Njawara
I wrote journal entries with the idea that they were going to become blog posts, so in the interest of not wasting that content I'm going to transcribe one here. Some of the information is stuff I've already told you, but it was written in Africa! Which makes it better than those namby pamby entries written in London! Yeah! Okay. Done now.
Sunday 13-4-08
We woke up at 5am this morning while it was still dark at the ECCO house (already this morning seems ages away) we packed up our stuff and drank fruit tea while the sun rose. Then we tumbled into the van and drove toward Banjul. There was a large, imposing arch- which is how we knew we were in the capital. Buildings were white with green trim and small signs that said things like "democratic assembly" and "fisheries and agriculture bureau"
We got in line for the ferry just as the market for the queue was setting up. Tara, our expert haggler, bought us 5 loaves of bread since we had eaten nothing at breakfast. Many people were walking around selling various wares: dubious looking perfume, assorted watches, bras on a stick and the like. I bought a baseball cap because the sun was so bright. It turned out that it unzips into a visor- so I am quite pleased with that.
I love sleeping under mosquito nets. I love the feeling of being enclosed and protected while still being able to see all around.
We arrived at the camp just before lunch. Once we crossed the river, filled up with gas, and continued driving the scenery finally stopped looking like India and began to look more like what I expected Africa to look like: lone leafy trees amongst bushed and grass. Grass roofed huts and fences made from reeds and sticks rather than concrete blocks.
Everything is fenced in here. Empty plots of land are fenced in, housed in the middle of nowhere amongst the bush are fenced in. The camp and various sections are the camp are fenced in and so on.
When we arrived the people who work here were lounging about and laughing. They laugh quite a lot. One woman, whose name I don't know (Yuma), is always making jokes and imitation people. When I awoke after my "it is waaaay too hot" nap and wandered back into the living clearing she was telling crude jokes. Her English is not terribly good, but her hand gestures are plenty graphic enough.
It is Mango season! Only just beginning so some are not very ripe- but mangoes- all the time mangoes that we rip the skin off with our teeth like the savage mango hunters we are.
When we first arrived the manager sat us down, introduced his staff, had us introduce ourselves and then told us how very very very very very very very very (etc.) important we were. Basically: we bring money into the village.
After nap time he sat us around again and let us ask questions. It was dusk and his accent is difficult for me to follow- so I stared up at the base of the leaf cover from the frees and watched as dozens and dozens of bats swooped around and ate mosquitoes. It was beautiful.
Sunday 13-4-08
We woke up at 5am this morning while it was still dark at the ECCO house (already this morning seems ages away) we packed up our stuff and drank fruit tea while the sun rose. Then we tumbled into the van and drove toward Banjul. There was a large, imposing arch- which is how we knew we were in the capital. Buildings were white with green trim and small signs that said things like "democratic assembly" and "fisheries and agriculture bureau"
We got in line for the ferry just as the market for the queue was setting up. Tara, our expert haggler, bought us 5 loaves of bread since we had eaten nothing at breakfast. Many people were walking around selling various wares: dubious looking perfume, assorted watches, bras on a stick and the like. I bought a baseball cap because the sun was so bright. It turned out that it unzips into a visor- so I am quite pleased with that.
I love sleeping under mosquito nets. I love the feeling of being enclosed and protected while still being able to see all around.
We arrived at the camp just before lunch. Once we crossed the river, filled up with gas, and continued driving the scenery finally stopped looking like India and began to look more like what I expected Africa to look like: lone leafy trees amongst bushed and grass. Grass roofed huts and fences made from reeds and sticks rather than concrete blocks.
Everything is fenced in here. Empty plots of land are fenced in, housed in the middle of nowhere amongst the bush are fenced in. The camp and various sections are the camp are fenced in and so on.
When we arrived the people who work here were lounging about and laughing. They laugh quite a lot. One woman, whose name I don't know (Yuma), is always making jokes and imitation people. When I awoke after my "it is waaaay too hot" nap and wandered back into the living clearing she was telling crude jokes. Her English is not terribly good, but her hand gestures are plenty graphic enough.
It is Mango season! Only just beginning so some are not very ripe- but mangoes- all the time mangoes that we rip the skin off with our teeth like the savage mango hunters we are.
When we first arrived the manager sat us down, introduced his staff, had us introduce ourselves and then told us how very very very very very very very very (etc.) important we were. Basically: we bring money into the village.
After nap time he sat us around again and let us ask questions. It was dusk and his accent is difficult for me to follow- so I stared up at the base of the leaf cover from the frees and watched as dozens and dozens of bats swooped around and ate mosquitoes. It was beautiful.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Pictures of Njawara
My hut, I slept on the Right
The Chickens! I loved the chickens! They circled around the camp all the time and the little ones would suddenly realize they were behind and then scamper to catch up. I took far far far too many pictures of the chickens.
The beautiful trees and the entrance gate to the Njawara cultural camp. This makes the camp look a bit bigger than it really was. I took this from the food area.
Some of the kids from the village.
Mamadou, his Kora, and his little amplifier.I forgot to write about the mangos- there were mango trees all over the place and we would eat them all the time. Everyone would eat them all the time, you bite the skin, peel it with your teeth and then gnaw on the fruit until you get to the pit/seed. We went through our entire supply of floss in four days. The mangos would fall onto the aluminum roof with a collosal bang and startle us.
Njawara
The first camp we went to was in Njawara. Getting there involved taking a ferry across the Gambia river. There are only a few ferries (four) and many people who want to take them (there are a few other ferries that will take you across, but the one that we took is the only one that reliably doesn't sink. Good idea to take that one, yes?) so we had to wake up early in the morning and pile in to the van with all of our stuff. This being the beginning of the trip- our stuff didn't amount to all that much. Yet.
The ferry was completely crammed with people and we almost didn't get on- but our ECCO guy who stayed with us the whole time: Habib, went to bat for us and between him and Mamadou (I'm sure I've spelled that wrong) they got us on the boat. Anyhow- after a long and bumpy journey we ended up in the camp. It was a bit of a lackluster welcome- everyone was sitting on foam mattresses propped up on cinder blocks, and for the most part they stayed there, but we were introduced to everyone and led to our huts.
The huts were made of concrete with thatch/straw roofs and tie dyed fabric for the door. The beds were foam and sunken in to the concrete. The huts were in a circle around a small planting area with a path that lead to the eating area and the class area.
We were eventually served food, which was good because I was *starving* and the night before we had had extra special chicken nuggets...we actually had chicken nuggets with some regularity while in Africa, much to our dismay. But I think that first afternoon in Njawara we had benechin. Here are some recipes for Gambian food: http://kidzbiz.100megsfree5.com/africa_cook.htm (I think bitter tomatoes are tasty, though I'm not sure you can get them in America?) After lunch we went and napped and eventually came back out to sit in the common area and ask the camp manager questions. His accent was such that I had difficulty understanding, so instead I stared up into the twilight and watched hundreds of bats fly back and forth overhead in and out of the mango trees.
That evening Mamadou played for us. He had a tiny little amp that was run off of batteries and while it *was* louder- it also horrifically distorted the sound. The Kora is an absolutely beautiful instrument when unamplified...ah well. In lessons he would sometimes not turn the amplifier on and I was always excited about that.
The first night we spent in Njawara was by far the loudest night we had anywhere. The bats (I assume it was the bats) were terrifically loud and beeped in a rhythmic, minor third pattern. Then there were all of the insects, the donkeys down the road freaking out, and the call to prayer at 4 or 5 in the morning. I vowed to record the nocturnal sounds the next night, but it was never again that loud nor interesting.
Mamadou taught us 5 Mandinka songs. (a little bit weird that we learned the Mandinka songs in the Wollof village and the Wollof songs in a Mandinka village...) He taught us in exactly the way that we have been taught to teach. He was always very supportive and positive, he broke the songs down in to small pieces and taught them by call and response, when any of us were lagging behind he didn't single us out but instead brought the entire group back a couple of steps to reinforce where we now were and each class time we reviewed what we had already learned.
We had the same class structure for the entire three weeks. We would wake up, have breakfast, and then the first set of classes for the day. When we later got into the tribes with more dancing we would do the dancing in the morning. I didn't have a watch so I was never really very clear what time it was, but I think the morning classes were three hours long from about 9:30 to 12:30. Then there would be a big break and we would wander the village, chat, work on our notebooks, review the songs we had learned that morning, play cards, nap, or just sweat a lot. We then had to wait until after the mid afternoon prayers to start class again which they normally would at about 5:30, I think. The evening classes were only about 2 hours long, I think. Then supper and sunset followed by the generators turning on and while we were in Njawara: vicious games of cards that frequently left people minorly injured.
One day we walked up to the local school and met some of the teachers and the vice principal there. All of the buildings were painted with Things To Remember such as "hard work before success" and a painted over "no vernacular" which intrigued me- why was that one painted over? I took lots of pictures of small children and then let them see. I had to be cool about them smearing mango-y fingers all over the camera screen because they were just so darn excited about seeing the pictures. Plus, they were cute.
Mamadou always left his Kora out in the eating area for us to play if we wanted to. We all muddled around on it a bit, and while I was playing it one afternoon he came over and started to teach me the beginning of the accompaniment for one of the songs that we were learning called "kyra" which means peace. I really like playing the Kora so I got fairly proficient at that little portion of music which was useful at the end of the trip when we picked the Koras up at Mamadou's house because there was a GMajor chord from it that people used to tune the instruments and I played it again to tell them which strings the chord involved.
The second day of classes he started teaching all of us to play the Kora in a sort of masterclass style with the person being taught in the center of the circle and everyone else listening and waiting for their turn. It worked well because the people at the beginning got more time and the people at the end knew what the phrase was supposed to sound like already.
The last day that we were in Njawara we decided to go on a boat trip. This ended up being slightly sketchier than we had realized and a couple of people backed out at the last moment, but that was okay because they got to take a cart ride back to the camp. I, in my gracefulness, managed to stick my foot/leg into some rather disgusting mud and almost lost my sandal. The boats were canoes made out of hollowed out trees, both of which had some significant leaks in them that required us to bail out water during the trip. That being said it was a nice trip and we saw lots of birds and oysters and one clawed crabs. At the end of the trip one of the young fishermen cleaned off my sandal (which was *very* nice of him) and we helped another man fill a canoe with giant bags of rice and flour and sugar and barrels of oil to take up the river to Senegal. It occurred to me that he was the West African version of a trucker.
So that is Njawara- pictures from the plane ride over, the beach the first day near Banjul, and from Njawara are now up on Flickr: http://flickr.com/photos/10933141@N07/
enjoy- and stay tuned for the next entries which will be about Berefet and the classes we had there.
The ferry was completely crammed with people and we almost didn't get on- but our ECCO guy who stayed with us the whole time: Habib, went to bat for us and between him and Mamadou (I'm sure I've spelled that wrong) they got us on the boat. Anyhow- after a long and bumpy journey we ended up in the camp. It was a bit of a lackluster welcome- everyone was sitting on foam mattresses propped up on cinder blocks, and for the most part they stayed there, but we were introduced to everyone and led to our huts.
The huts were made of concrete with thatch/straw roofs and tie dyed fabric for the door. The beds were foam and sunken in to the concrete. The huts were in a circle around a small planting area with a path that lead to the eating area and the class area.
We were eventually served food, which was good because I was *starving* and the night before we had had extra special chicken nuggets...we actually had chicken nuggets with some regularity while in Africa, much to our dismay. But I think that first afternoon in Njawara we had benechin. Here are some recipes for Gambian food: http://kidzbiz.100megsfree5.com/africa_cook.htm (I think bitter tomatoes are tasty, though I'm not sure you can get them in America?) After lunch we went and napped and eventually came back out to sit in the common area and ask the camp manager questions. His accent was such that I had difficulty understanding, so instead I stared up into the twilight and watched hundreds of bats fly back and forth overhead in and out of the mango trees.
That evening Mamadou played for us. He had a tiny little amp that was run off of batteries and while it *was* louder- it also horrifically distorted the sound. The Kora is an absolutely beautiful instrument when unamplified...ah well. In lessons he would sometimes not turn the amplifier on and I was always excited about that.
The first night we spent in Njawara was by far the loudest night we had anywhere. The bats (I assume it was the bats) were terrifically loud and beeped in a rhythmic, minor third pattern. Then there were all of the insects, the donkeys down the road freaking out, and the call to prayer at 4 or 5 in the morning. I vowed to record the nocturnal sounds the next night, but it was never again that loud nor interesting.
Mamadou taught us 5 Mandinka songs. (a little bit weird that we learned the Mandinka songs in the Wollof village and the Wollof songs in a Mandinka village...) He taught us in exactly the way that we have been taught to teach. He was always very supportive and positive, he broke the songs down in to small pieces and taught them by call and response, when any of us were lagging behind he didn't single us out but instead brought the entire group back a couple of steps to reinforce where we now were and each class time we reviewed what we had already learned.
We had the same class structure for the entire three weeks. We would wake up, have breakfast, and then the first set of classes for the day. When we later got into the tribes with more dancing we would do the dancing in the morning. I didn't have a watch so I was never really very clear what time it was, but I think the morning classes were three hours long from about 9:30 to 12:30. Then there would be a big break and we would wander the village, chat, work on our notebooks, review the songs we had learned that morning, play cards, nap, or just sweat a lot. We then had to wait until after the mid afternoon prayers to start class again which they normally would at about 5:30, I think. The evening classes were only about 2 hours long, I think. Then supper and sunset followed by the generators turning on and while we were in Njawara: vicious games of cards that frequently left people minorly injured.
One day we walked up to the local school and met some of the teachers and the vice principal there. All of the buildings were painted with Things To Remember such as "hard work before success" and a painted over "no vernacular" which intrigued me- why was that one painted over? I took lots of pictures of small children and then let them see. I had to be cool about them smearing mango-y fingers all over the camera screen because they were just so darn excited about seeing the pictures. Plus, they were cute.
Mamadou always left his Kora out in the eating area for us to play if we wanted to. We all muddled around on it a bit, and while I was playing it one afternoon he came over and started to teach me the beginning of the accompaniment for one of the songs that we were learning called "kyra" which means peace. I really like playing the Kora so I got fairly proficient at that little portion of music which was useful at the end of the trip when we picked the Koras up at Mamadou's house because there was a GMajor chord from it that people used to tune the instruments and I played it again to tell them which strings the chord involved.
The second day of classes he started teaching all of us to play the Kora in a sort of masterclass style with the person being taught in the center of the circle and everyone else listening and waiting for their turn. It worked well because the people at the beginning got more time and the people at the end knew what the phrase was supposed to sound like already.
The last day that we were in Njawara we decided to go on a boat trip. This ended up being slightly sketchier than we had realized and a couple of people backed out at the last moment, but that was okay because they got to take a cart ride back to the camp. I, in my gracefulness, managed to stick my foot/leg into some rather disgusting mud and almost lost my sandal. The boats were canoes made out of hollowed out trees, both of which had some significant leaks in them that required us to bail out water during the trip. That being said it was a nice trip and we saw lots of birds and oysters and one clawed crabs. At the end of the trip one of the young fishermen cleaned off my sandal (which was *very* nice of him) and we helped another man fill a canoe with giant bags of rice and flour and sugar and barrels of oil to take up the river to Senegal. It occurred to me that he was the West African version of a trucker.
So that is Njawara- pictures from the plane ride over, the beach the first day near Banjul, and from Njawara are now up on Flickr: http://flickr.com/photos/10933141@N07/
enjoy- and stay tuned for the next entries which will be about Berefet and the classes we had there.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Back in the land of the Internet
We are back at Cape Point at the ECCO house. This morning we left Berefet where we had been for just under two weeks. This afternoon we are going to see our Wollof teachers again to pick up the drums and film a performance. Tomorrow we see our Mandinka teacher Momodou again and pick up the Koras. We already have the djembes, the ballaphones, the calabash drum, the talking drums, the rattles, and the flutes. Do you see how all of those instruments are pluralized? It is a very serious concern that we might be hugely over the weight limit with all of the instruments that we bought.
We'll be back in London on Saturday morning. Very very early: we land at 3:30am. Kate's boyfriend Simon will be driving Nick and I back to Sundial which is very nice of him- and greatly needed because frankly if he didn't drive us I have no idea how we would get back...
The trip has been great, we haven't had any massive fights and we're all still friends. Impressive, yes?
I'm really looking forward to resuming normal phone and internet service because I MISS YOU.
We'll be back in London on Saturday morning. Very very early: we land at 3:30am. Kate's boyfriend Simon will be driving Nick and I back to Sundial which is very nice of him- and greatly needed because frankly if he didn't drive us I have no idea how we would get back...
The trip has been great, we haven't had any massive fights and we're all still friends. Impressive, yes?
I'm really looking forward to resuming normal phone and internet service because I MISS YOU.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
I'm in AFRICA
Dear Blog family-
We made it safe and sound. Maria- who is Polish, was given really conflicting advice about whether or not she needed a visa but ultimately was not let on the plane- which is terrible. But she should be joining us on Tuesday. Which is great.
Currently we are staying in the ECCO house outside of Banjul. Last night I stayed awake through dinner and then passed out for about 12 hours. It was nice to get some sleep. They have us sleeping in these double beds on the roof. It is quite cosy. I've had my first bedtime under a mosquito net (still got eaten alive) My first bath/shower with a bucket (Not bad! I only used half the bucket and even washed my hair.)
We went to the beach today and I swam in the ocean! So much fun, though I am quite sunburned along my shoulders now...oops. More sunscreen next time. I went for a walk down the beach and ended up around a bunch of fisher people. One of them pulled a sea snail from its shell...which was gross. But now I have the shell, so that is pretty cool.
Tomorrow we go on the ferry to the camp. Apparently there are only two ferries and it can take hours and hours and hours just to get one one. So we are leaving at 6am. I'll be strong...
After today there *really* won't be any more Internet until the last three days of the trip when we are back at the ECCO house.
Love you all!
CASEY
We made it safe and sound. Maria- who is Polish, was given really conflicting advice about whether or not she needed a visa but ultimately was not let on the plane- which is terrible. But she should be joining us on Tuesday. Which is great.
Currently we are staying in the ECCO house outside of Banjul. Last night I stayed awake through dinner and then passed out for about 12 hours. It was nice to get some sleep. They have us sleeping in these double beds on the roof. It is quite cosy. I've had my first bedtime under a mosquito net (still got eaten alive) My first bath/shower with a bucket (Not bad! I only used half the bucket and even washed my hair.)
We went to the beach today and I swam in the ocean! So much fun, though I am quite sunburned along my shoulders now...oops. More sunscreen next time. I went for a walk down the beach and ended up around a bunch of fisher people. One of them pulled a sea snail from its shell...which was gross. But now I have the shell, so that is pretty cool.
Tomorrow we go on the ferry to the camp. Apparently there are only two ferries and it can take hours and hours and hours just to get one one. So we are leaving at 6am. I'll be strong...
After today there *really* won't be any more Internet until the last three days of the trip when we are back at the ECCO house.
Love you all!
CASEY
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